Traveling is a function of education. Whether traveling in your home country, an adjacent one, or halfway around the world, the act of travel can provide you with insights into a culture, a history, or a reason for being of another nation. My recent visit to Franklin, Tennessee, taught me a lot about two of the most critical battles of the American Civil War: the Battle of Franklin and the Battle of Spring Hill.
Being Canadian, my foray into American history has been limited to exposure through popular television series, documentaries on PBS (i.e., Ken Burn’s Civil War), movies, and the best class I took at university (American Politics). Delving deeper into the subject matter, I found myself at the Battle of Franklin Trust to learn more about the three properties you can visit in Tennessee: Carter House, Carnton, and Rippa Villa.
The Tennessee state flag has three stars representing the three regions of Tennessee. In 1796, Tennessee became the 16th state to join the Union of the United States. In 1861, it was the last to leave the Union, and in 1866, it was the first Confederate state to rejoin the Union States at the end of the Civil War. All of these dates are important but not as impactful as the one night when almost 10,000 soldiers were injured or died in a five-hour Battle of Franklin in Middle Tennessee.
Pre-Civil War, Tennessee was divided, with western citizens on the side of the Confederates, eastern citizens firmly planted on the Union side, and Middle Tennessee citizens having loyalties to one or other other. The division was so predominant that there were two referendums on secession before entering the Civil War on the Confederate side.
The cities of Franklin and Spring Hill are in the middle of the state, 13 miles apart. Carnton, Carter House, and Rippa Villa tell the stories of those fateful two days at the end of November 1864.
The Confederate Army, led by General Bell Hood, launched an offensive as a last-ditch effort to liberate Union-held Nashville. As Nashville had been a substantial Union base since 1862, with five rail lines and river access, it was important for the Confederates to regain control. The Battle of Franklin was fought on November 30, 1864, as part of the Franklin–Nashville Campaign of the American Civil War.
The significance of these historic properties lies in what they did during this battle. Whether they housed families hiding from the war, became a military post, or a hospital for wounded Confederate soldiers, all are important to the war effort on that fateful day.
Rippa Villa
Rippa Villa
5700 Main Street, Spring Hill, TN 37174, – (931) 486-9037
The Greek Revival-style home that stands today was built in the early 1850s by Nat Cheairs, a major in the 3rd Tennessee Infantry during the Civil War. He and his wife, Susan, were among the wealthiest families in the region. The Chearis family arrived in 1811 and bought 300 acres (which eventually grew to 1,000 acres). They brought enslaved people with them, cultivated cotton, had a cotton gin, and eventually held 75 enslaved people.
The campaign to recapture Nashville began at Spring Hill. The Battle of Spring Hill marked the beginning of the tragedy that would unfold on the fields south of Franklin the following afternoon, November 30, 1864. As the fading autumn light cast long shadows, the American Civil War surged toward its brutal end.
Rippa Villa is owned by the City of Spring Hill and managed by The Battle of Franklin Trust. Unlike Carnton, this home has fewer furnishings, and many rooms are still being renovated and painted. From the second-floor bedrooms, you can see the battlegrounds, where the Union Army escaped to push through to Franklin the next day.
The docent will discuss the family history and details about that fateful day. They will also discuss the lives of the family and enslaved people. There are so many details about these two offensives over 6-8 hours that it is best to take a guided tour to learn more. The home tour takes approximately 60 minutes and discusses Cheairs’ family life and how the Spring Hill Battle unfolded.
On the property, there is a barn with a beautiful barn quilt on the front. You can walk around the grounds and read the information panels. I encourage you to drive to the back of the property, and you will find a small shack that probably houses some of the enslaved people. Further down the road, you will find the Slave Cemetery and the Chearis family plot. It is both spooky and fascinating. Please note: I was warned not to walk too deeply into the woods as snakes may be snakes lurking about (you’ve been warned).
Carter House
Carter House
1140 Columbia Avenue, Franklin, TN 37064 – (615) 791-1861
Located in Franklin, the Carter House was near the Battle of Franklin, which took place on the evening of November 30, 1864. Throughout the day, the US Army set defensive lines to keep the oncoming Confederate Army at bay while the bridge was being repaired to facilitate the US Army’s defense of Nashville. A US Army command post was set up at Carter House to provide a line of defense.
Fascinating fact: The Carter House office building is the most bullet-riddled building still standing from the Civil War.
Fountain Branch Carter came to Franklin in the early 1800s from Virginia. Start growing cotton and build a cotton gin processing 12,000 lbs of gin a year (the USA was the world’s number one cotton supplier at the time).
There are 28 enslaved men, women, and children. This is a large family with only the father at the helm as the mother had died. The older family members believe strongly that Tennessee remains a part of the Union, whereas the younger generation thinks they should fight for the Confederate Army.
By the time of the battle, 16 Carter family members were living in the house when the war came to their home. The main story about this family and this house is that one of the sons, Todd Carter, fights at the Battle of Franklin. Eventually, he is injured and loses his life.
Carnton
Carnton
1345 Eastern Flank Circle, Franklin, TN 37064 – (615) 794-0903
The jewel in the crown of the three Battle of Franklin Trust properties, Carnton, is one you must visit! It is the home of Randall McGovock, born in Virginia in 1768, who moved to Franklin in 1805 and built the house in 1815. The main house that you see today was built between 1826 and 1830. At the time of the Battle of Franklin, John and Carrie McGavock were in the house with their two surviving children and 44 enslaved men, women, and children on the property.
Highly political and an outspoken unionist, John McGavock voted against succession from the Union. By this time, he was in his early forties and decided not to fight in the Civil War. Regardless of their political leanings against the Confederates, the house was taken over and became a Confederate Field Hospital. They had no choice but to turn away the Confederates, but instead of complacency, they provided humanitarian aid to these soldiers.
When you tour the house, you will see evidence of the brutality of a makeshift hospital in the mid-1800s. You can still see the stains left by the blood that pooled in areas of the house used for surgery. It is a fascinating visit.
One of the most interesting parts of Carnton is the Confederate Soldiers Cemetery. Adjacent to the family’s cemetery, it provided a final resting place for the fallen soldiers of the Battle of Franklin. With Confederate soldiers coming from many different states, each was laid to rest with their brethren. More significant markers denote the state, and the smaller ones are for individuals.
These soldiers were exhumed and moved to this location in June of 1866. They buried 1,481 in small boxes with bones and fragments of bodies. To their credit, John and Carrie McGavock maintained this cemetery for the rest of their lives. They even let families stay with them when they visited loved ones buried in the cemetery.
The kitchen was one of the buildings to the side of the main house. In those times, it was almost always separated from the main house. The intense heat would have been unbearable in the summer. You can see the foundation of the first Carnton home before the larger home was built. The nursery would have been at this end of the house to have it closer to the nursemaids and help.
This modest cabin is likely to be the living quarters of the house and skilled enslaved people. Its proximity to the house and the kitchen makes it ideal for those who would have to attend to the family on a daily basis.
The first enslaved people came to Carnton in the early 19th century. From eleven to forty-four laboured on the 600-acre land. There were eleven wooden cabins initially, but only this brick structure survived. The other structures would have been two or three hundred yards from the house.
The information panel contains stories of enslaved people who lived, died, and passed through Cranton. The doucet who gave us the tour is working towards building family trees of the descendants of those enslaved peoples. She is enthused about this task and uncovering more stories about the African-American families living at Carnton. It is essential to document and learn about everyone who lived here.
This kitchen and the ornamental garden were very important to the McGavock family. Moved from the southeastern part of the property to the western corner, the garden is meticulously tended to replicate what it was in the mid-19th century. It is populated with plants that would have been available in Middle Tennessee before 1869.
Simple in design, the large Osage tree and cedars drew my attention. I have always been intrigued by ornamental Osage fruit sold in my local greenhouses for winter planters. The Visit Franklin website has a detailed post on how the garden is managed and what plants populate this one-acre garden.
This year, the Trust will commemorate the 160th Anniversary of the Battles of Spring Hill and Franklin. On November 29, from 5 to 8 PM, visitors can visit Rippa Villa and learn about the fateful events. On November 30, also from 5 to 8 PM, you can see Carter House and Carnton and experience the story of the Battle of Franklin, its cost, and its long-term impact. Both evening events are free and open to the public.
Carter House and Carnton Franklin Battlefield day tours begin at 5 am, 9 am, 11 and 2 pm, cost $29/person, and are 90 minutes. Spring Hill Battlefield tours do not have a 5 am tour but 9, 11, and 2 pm tours and are also $29/person.
FAQ
Can you visit all three historic locations in one day?
I highly recommend you visit over two or three days. It would be fairly simple to do two in one day, but if you take a one-hour tour (which I highly recommend), you will run out of time quickly.
Are there different tours?
Yes, each location has different tours. Some are pretty basic, others include the battlegrounds, and others are self-directed. Check out the website for online ticket purchases.
My recommendation: Tennessee Campaign Ticket to Carter House, Carnton, & Rippa Villa
Discounted ticket for the 60-minute Classic House Tours at Carter House, Carnton, & Rippa Villa. $50.
Where can I learn more about the Civil War?
There is an extensive selection of books at Carnton and Rippa Villa. Ask at the cashier for suggestions. Look for books by Eric A. Jacobson for specific books on The Battle of Franklin and the Confederate Cemetery.
The Franklin Trust also has a podcast (The Dispatch) and numerous YouTube videos, which are very informative. Both resources provide general information about the American Civil War and detailed accounts of the Battle of Franklin. One particular episode discusses what books you may want to consider.
Where do I stay for my visit to Franklin?
I stayed at the Springhill Suites in Cool Spring, TN. It is modern and spacious, and it is an easy 15-minute drive to Carnton and Carter House and just over 20-minutes to Rippa Villa.
I am very grateful to the caretakers and guides at The Battle of Franklin Trust – specifically those at Carnton and Rippa Villa for their detailed tours of these historic sites. I also want to thank Visit Franklin for hosting my visit to this beautiful area of Tennessee.
Margarita Ibbott is a travel and lifestyle blogger. She blogs about travel in Canada, the United States and Europe giving practical advice through restaurant, hotel and attraction reviews. She writes for DownshiftingPRO.com and other online media outlets.