On a recent trip to the province of Quebec I returned to one of my favourite areas: Cote Nord and Quebec Maritime. A couple of summers ago, I spent a week on the Lighthouse Trail visiting the north-eastern part of this very large Canadian province and I was itching to get back and was plotting where to stay in Quebec Maritime.
Situated on the north and south shores of the St. Lawrence River, these two regions have become a favourite of mine because of the breathtaking beauty, friendly people and extraordinary seafood. On my Girl’s Getaway 2.0 (post WITS Conference), I was able to visit a new area: Saguenay and Lac St. Jean. Traveling down the Saguenay River with the majestic fjords surrounding us, I was already planning my return trip before even leaving!
When in this part of Canada, the outdoors is your playground. Be prepared to take a whale-watching cruise or go sea kayaking. There are plenty of hikes, a via Ferrata climb, a high ropes course, cycling through blueberry fields and a whole lot of relaxing if that is what you want to do. You can go to the Zoo Sauvage, Village Val Jalbert or a quick tour of the Fjord Museum.
There are activities for families, romantic getaways or very safe solo travel adventures. By token, there are a variety of different accommodations to be had here: campsites (within the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park), hotels, B’nBs, cabins, yurts and treehouses. Your dream accommodations are here in Quebec!
Whether you plan a family vacation at Ferme 5 Etoiles including a visit with Jacob the grey wolf or Luna the arctic wolf or you plan a secluded (and very romantic) stay in a futuristic pod in Cap Jaseux or you chose the cozy comfort of a lodge with a decadent pool and sauna at Pourvoirie Cap au Leste, you have plenty of choices of where to stay. Below is a list of places which I have visited and/or frequented in my travels. I have provided the address so that you can make plans on Google Maps.
Saguenay- Lac St. Jean – Saguenay Fjords
Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste
If you are seeking a-new-world-hunting-lodge experience consider staying in the beautiful Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste in Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. Providing a picture-perfect view of the Saguenay Fjords, the drive up to the lodge is a bit bumpy – as it feels more like a logging road – but the climb up the mountain is worth the spectacular view. We were gobsmacked when we stood on the large terrace overlooking the mountains and the Saguenay river.
On a clear day, you can see forever! This lodge has been around for over 20 years but has made renovations within the last few to include a beautiful lap pool, sauna and a terrace for you to indulge in and soak up the rays. This lodge is a favourite of European tourists but I would love to introduce my hubby to one of the romantic cabins. There are rooms in the lodge, in three-storey walk-up cabins (suitable for families and larger groups) and of course the romantic cabins with modern amenities and cozy beds.
Location:
Pourvoirie du Cap au Leste
551 Chemin du Cap à l’Est, Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, (Quebec) Canada G0V 1T0
Phone: (418) 675-2000
Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux.
They are futuristic pods sitting in the trees. Not sure what to expect of these unique modern cabins? Cap Jaseux features a variety of lodging options including some unique suspended spheres, tree houses and log cabins, all with great views. You will love the calm and quietness of being perched overlooking the Boreal Forest. Or if you prefer, you can try the larger canvas domes. These are not perched in trees but take you right into the heart of this beautiful French Canadian region of Saguenay/Lac St. Jean.
Dome in Cap Jaseux Park
The domes are equipped with a small kitchen, bed with bedding, plus a deck to sit and have a coffee in the morning or a glass of wine at night while you watch the beautiful night sky. I can just imagine the stars at night!
This park is a multi-activity site with a vast forest, hiking trails and 2 natural beaches right on the Saguenay fjord.
Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux
250, chemin de la Pointe-aux-Pins C.P. 1058, Saint-Fulgence, G0V 1S0
Auberge des Battures
Auberge des Battures is a 32 room country-style hotel. This means it has basic but comfortable amenities and fits the bill nicely for the budget or moderate traveler. Overlooking the Baie de HA!HA! (yes, that is the real name), you will enjoy your view from your terrace or balcony as the sun sets on the fjords. The hotel has clean and spacious rooms, though a bit dated, but the hidden gem is the restaurant.
It is worth the trip to this small hotel as we felt it was the best meal of our Girl’s Getaway 2.0 road trip (although the seafood chowder at La Galouine in Tadoussac was a close second). Where this meal excelled was in the service and farm to table menu. With seasonal meat and vegetable choice, it highlighted local delicacies. The whiskey and maple syrup braised beef ribs were outstanding and the duck breast from locally sourced duck was delicious. This meal was THE BOMB.
Location:
Auberge des Battures
6295, boulevard de la Grande-Baie Sud, La Baie (Quebec) Canada G7B 3P6
Phone: 418 544-8234 or 1 800 668-8234
Lac St. Jean
Chalets et Spa Lac-Saint-Jean
As we made our way towards Lac St. Jean, we were able to indulge at a mini-Nordic Spa when were were hosted by the Chalets et Spa Lac-Saint-Jean . Located
right on Lac St. Jean, these two story condos were very spacious with a full kitchen and small living area including a large TV. The beds were located up a steep set of stairs in the loft. They were heavenly to sleep in under thick fluffy duvets! The highlight of the stay was the Nordic Spa with a cold dipping pool and hot whirlpools which the girls happily indulged in. I stayed nice and cosy in the hot tubs. We had tried the dry sauna which looked like very large wine barrels! In the spa area there were secure lockers, bathrooms, showers and soothing music. We had to ask for bathrobes and flip flops at the front desk upon check-in. They will provide them for you so be sure to ask. There is a restaurant on the property.
The Nordic Spa is getting a makeover after a fire destroyed the building and pools. They are working hard to complete it by the start of the 2018 summer season. We enjoyed our time in the spa but did take note that a few things still had to be fixed or be set up properly.
Location:
Chalets et Spa Lac-Saint-Jean
96, chemin du Parc Municipal
Chambord (Québec) Canada G0W 1G0
Phone: 418-342-1111 or toll free: 1-877-342-7933
Val Jalbert Village
For something completely different, why not stay in the turn of the 20th Century “company town” of Val Jalbert. Another unique place for where to stay in Quebec. This was a functioning pulp mill until 1927. In the 1960s it was reinvented as a cultural and historical village with a general store, hotel, restaurant and mini-power plant.
We loved our tour of the village, the accommodations, the banquet hall and restaurant facilities. Perfect for a destination wedding, the waterfalls at the mill provide an impressive backdrop to any special occasion. Probably one of the most expensive options that we toured, the stay at the historical Village of Val Jalbert is more than just a hotel room. Your stay in one of the luxury rooms includes a day pass to Val Jalbert Village, a carriage ride to the restaurant (included is a four-course meal at the Restaurant du Molin) as well as a hearty breakfast. This authentic 1920s company town will take you back in time. You will have a guided tour of the period houses, pulp mill, general store and the breathtaking waterfall. You can see the power of these waterfalls on my FB page where I have a short video.
Location:
95, rue Saint-Georges, Chambord (Québec) G0W 1G0
Phone: 1 888 675-3132
On our last night of the one week tour of Saguenay-Lac St. Jean we were treated to a very nice evening at Centre de villégiature Dam-en-terre in Alma. This newly renovated condo was three stories (with a bedroom and full bath in the basement level), full bathroom, kitchen and living area on the ground floor and two bedrooms on the third floor. There was a combination of beds (singles and doubles) with modern decor and amenities.
We LOVED this condo because it was spacious, bright and felt like home! There were two full bathrooms (though none on the third floor). There was a marine in this large complex of buildings. You can rent bicycles and ride part of the 256 km Blueberry Trail (The Véloroute des Bleuets) which circles Lac St. Jean.
Location:
1385, chemin de la Marina, C.P. 836, Alma, (Quebec) Canada G8B 5W1
Phone: 418 668-3016 or 1 888 289-301
Quebec Maritime – Cote Nord – Tadoussac
Canopée Lit
Just north of Tadoussac, in Anse-de-Roche you will find Canopée Lit,a charming combination of wooden tree houses (or cabins) or treetop “bubbles,” which are see-through domes. These spheres are blown up each spring and taken down for the winter. The wooden treetop cabins are 4 seasons although this camp is closed in November and April for shoulder season. Our hostess Claire offered us one of the best coffees in the region. Breakfast is made in the main lodge but you can make your own meals in the fully-equipped compact kitchen nook.
Your balcony oversees the forest, with a few choice cabins providing views of the Saguenay Fjords. Included is heating, private bathroom with toilet, towels and bed linen. Breakfasts are delivered to your door but your luggage is not. This is best suited to a knapsack or overnight bags, rolling luggage would not fare well in the forest because you are walking in! The reception area has Wi-Fi, games and books for guests to enjoy. Plan ahead and book well in advance, getting a cabin was impossible for us in May – July and August is peak season here. This is a very quiet, secluded and romantic choice for couples. I would not advise this for families with small children as the stairs are steep and the cabins are pretty high in the sky!
Location: 303, chemin de l’Anse-de-Roche
Sacré-Coeur (Quebec) Canada G0T 1Y0
Phone: +418-236-9544
When in Tadoussac, you have various choices of accommodations: Bed and Breakfasts, family-style cabins on a reserve or a comfortable stay at an iconic hotel. Sit in an Adirondack (or Muskoka) chair on the lawn of the Hotel Tadoussac and sip a cold drink while you watch the boats come into the bay. Relax and stay a while as there is much to see in this small town located in Cote Nord at the point where the Saguenay River meets the St. Lawrence River. It is the beginning of the Saguenay Fjords.
Auberge La Sainte Paix
Keep it simple and cosy by staying at Auberge La Sainte Paix a Bed and Breakfast with a knockout view. You have various configurations of rooms to stay in whether you are a couple, a family or a solo traveler. The owner once worked at the tourism board and can give you plenty of ideas on what to do (I suggest a whale watching tour with AML Croisières). You can book many activities directly with this B’nB host! You have access to a full kitchen and she even has a mini-fridge for you to store your food items.
Beware, the front desk closes around 8 pm so if you arrive later, let Marie-Josée know! The rate was very reasonable and everything was within walking distance (be sure and drop by the CIMM – Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre – you can see it from the balcony in the image on the left). You can see more pictures of the rooms on my FB page.
Location:
102, rue du Saguenay, Tadoussac G0T 2A0
Phone: 418-235-4803
Owner: Marie-Josée Guérin
Essipit – Natakam Condos- Hotels vue sur mer
For another family-friendly option, I would suggest you stay at the Natakam Condos-Hôtels vue sur mer. These are two-bedroom condos with a full kitchen, living area and plenty of comfy beds. I loved the view of the bay from our balcony. As the fog came in there were some wonderful photo opportunities. Located 30 minutes north of Tadoussac it is an easy drive on Highway 138 E. Nearby you can take a zodiac tour with Crosieres Essipit. We had a very foggy day and it was a bit creepy on the zodiac (but exhilarating at the same time).
Location:
46, rue de la Réserve
Essipit (Québec) Canada G0T 1K011
Phone: +418-233-2266
Hotel Tadoussac
In 2016, I stayed at the iconic Hotel Tadoussac. A summer playground for the rich families from New England and Montreal, this hotel is a bit dated in its decor but that is what holds the charm. The rooms are smallish for our modern standards but there is no denying this was once a large luxurious hotel. The dining room remains large and has one heck of a breakfast! Have a cocktail in the bar or better yet, go outside and sit in the large red Adirondack chairs and watch the world go by. It is very relaxing… trust me on this!
Location:
165, rue Bord de l’Eau
Tadoussac (Quebec) Canada G0T 2A0
Phone: +418-235-4421
Ferme 5 Etoiles
One of the highlights of our trip was staying at Ferme 5 Etoiles. This is where we met Jacob the grey wolf and Luna the arctic wolf. There is no question this is the best option for a family. Our ‘cabins’ were very large with each room having at least two beds (double and single). Paula’s room had three beds with two doubles and a single). This means that you can easily fit a family of 5 or 6.
The kitchen was fully equipped and there was a small but comfortable living room area. Although I am not sure you want to cook as the hotel restaurant (set up in a cafeteria-style) had a wonderful French Canadian cook. She made a stuffed salmon with mushrooms, asparagus and other goodies that were delicious. We were also treated to venison!
This working farm has both a small petting zoo (with goats, chickens, pheasants etc.) as well as some larger animals (bison, llama and moose) for you to visit. You can read a full review of Ferme 5 Etoiles here.
Location:
465, route 172 Nord, Sacré-Coeur (Quebec) Canada G0T 1Y0
Phone: +418-236-4833
Quebec Maritime – Gaspésie
Covering the Gaspe Peninsula, the Gaspésie has to be one of the most beautiful regions of Quebec. There are 10 National Parks in the Quebec Maritime region, you will not want to miss a visit to Forillon and Gaspésie National Parks for camping, ready-to-camp or RVing options. If, however, you want to stay in a traditional hotel you may want to consider these properties.
Hôtel-Motel Le Mirage
With a stunning view of Percé Rock, you will want to stay at the Hôtel-Motel Le Mirage in Percé, Quebec. This hotel has large country-style hotel rooms with spectacular views of the St. Lawrence River. Atop a hill, looking towards Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island, it is well worth getting up very early to take a picture of the sunrise. I did just that and was rewarded with this photo. Close to Perce Rock and the ferry that takes you to Bonaventure island you can see one of the largest flock of northern gannet living on the cliffs. This is a must-see activity!
Location: 288 QC-132, Percé, (Quebec) Canada G0C 2L0
Phone: +1 418-782-5151
Riôtel hotel chain – Riôtel Matane
As you take a tour of the Lighthouse Trail, stop off in Matane. Located A short drive from the Reford Garden/Jardins de Metis, you will not want to miss the jewel in the crown of the Riôtel hotel chain. Another great option of where to stay in Quebec Maritime, this family-owned hotel chain based in Quebec, Riôtel Matane is a luxury hotel where the Matane River meets the St. Lawrence seaway. Do not be fooled by the small-town location, this hotel is very well appointed and has a world-class restaurant. Cargo (the restaurant) provided the BEST seafood platter.
The accommodations have a newer addition as well as traditional rooms. I stayed in one of the newer rooms which were very European in feel and style. The sleek white interior had a comfortable king bed with a pulldown queen size murphy bed. Very spacious, this is a wonderful room for a family of 4. There are a few larger family suites for larger families. The pool facility is made to keep the little ones entertained (with a small indoor water feature) as well as hot tubs and saunas for the adults. The view of St. Lawrence was beautiful. Take the time to have a cocktail on the spacious patio by one of the fire pits and enjoy the sunset.
Location:
250 Avenue du Phare E, Matane, (Quebec) Canada G4W 3N4
Phone: (418) 566-2651
For something completely different, why don’t you stay in a lighthouse? As part of my epic Lighthouse Trail, we visited a number of lighthouses and we were told that you could stay in a lighthouse! I could not resist putting these two locations on my list of where to stay in Quebec!
Chalets de l’Anse Ste-Hélène
You have a choice at the Chalets de l’Anse Ste-Hélène with a selection of 2-6 person stand-alone chalets or a stay in a replica ship. Which would you prefer? Another great idea for unique accommodations in Quebec Maritime is a stay in the La Grande Hermine. It is a replica of the largest of three ships Jacques Cartier used to sail up the St. Lawrence River. La Grande Hermine has two sleeping quarters, one on each end of the boat (queen & double beds), a bathroom with a shower, a living room and kitchenette. Wi-fi is available and an exquisite stay with breathtaking views.
Chalets de l’Anse Sainte-Hélène
892 Boulevard Perron, Maria, Quebec G0C 1Y0
Phone: (581)-886-5455
Quebec Maritime – Bas St. Laurent
Maisons du Phare de l’Île Verte
Built in 1809, Maisons du Phare de l’Île Verte is a B&B located on Green Island (Île Verte) in the St. Lawrence River. Accessible by ferry on the south shore between Riviere de Loup and Trois Pistoles, reservations during high season are highly recommended. There are limited sailings each day dependent on the tide.
The B&B offers 9 rooms in two buildings: the light keeper’s house and the assistant light keeper’s house. Large groups can reserve one or both houses. You can sleep peacefully beneath a beacon that has been quietly sweeping over the St. Lawrence River for over 200 years. Each house is equipped with a full kitchen, which you can use to prepare meals, but make sure to pack your own food as there are no grocery stores, pharmacies or bank machines on the island. There are several restaurants and a fish store. The hearty breakfast will be a good start to your day of outdoor fun!
Location:
2802, chemin du Phare
Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Douleurs
Île Verte (Quebec) Canada G0L 1K0
Phone: 418-898-2730
Pot à l’Eau-de-Vie Lighthouse
Your second option is just a few kilometres north at Pot à l’Eau-de-Vie Lighthouse a federal heritage building located on an island offering three cosy rooms furnished in the spirit of the 19th century. This is more than a room in a lighthouse, your stay includes a one night stay, boat transfer from Riviere de Loup to and from the island, guided cruise and tour, dinner, brunch, snack and gratuities. Not bad starting from $190 – 225 CDN a night per person based on double occupancy – single occupancy runs $230-265 CDN! Don’t want to stay in the lighthouse you have other options on the larger adjacent Île aux Lièvres (Hare Island) where you can stay in a cottage, a room at the inn or use one of the 22 wilderness campsites!
Location:
200 Rue Hayward, Rivière-du-Loup, (Quebec) Canada G5R 3Y9
Phone: 418-867-1660 or toll free – 1-877-867-1660
You will not be disappointed in any of these accommodations. I have had the pleasure of travelling often to Quebec in the last two years and I have stayed in a variety of accommodations. If I did not stay myself, I had a tour of each of these establishments and feel comfortable recommending them to my readers. I encourage you to visit these regions soon. You need to see QUEBEC BY THE SEA!
A bientôt.
Disclosure: I was the guest of the tourism boards of Quebec Maritime and Cote Nord, Saguenay and Lac St. Jean regions. I was a guest at some of these hotels where I was welcomed to enjoy the facilities. I also enjoyed breakfast and dinners at some of the host hotels. All opinions are my own and held without reservation or prejudice. I would go back to any of these establishments in a heartbeat.
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Margarita Ibbott is a travel and lifestyle blogger. She blogs about travel in Canada, the United States and Europe giving practical advice through restaurant, hotel and attraction reviews. She writes for DownshiftingPRO.com and other online media outlets.
Great post. Love to return and stay either at Cap au Leste overlooking the fjord or in one of those tree houses at Parc Jaseux. Then I would most definitely also do the park obstacle course and zip line – that looked like a ton of fun. So many amazing spots to stay.
I have the view of the fjords on my screensaver. I NEED to go back. Love Saguenay region.