Street Food in Colombia all in La Perseverancia Market – Bogota

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So delicious. Mouthwatering tidbits of yummy, yummy food. I love food (much like my Chef father did). It is both a blessing and a curse. I cautiously anticipated a new food program on Netflix from the producers of Chef’s Table. More of an ‘everyday man’ as opposed to fine dining experience. I was NOT disappointed as I watch the new Netflix show Street Food, Latin America. I scrolled through the episodes quickly as I was looking for street food in Colombia and found not just one vendor but a whole market!

I knew that my country of birth would be featured but with such a culinary diversity, the question was what region or which city would be featured. More importantly which dish would take center stage? Would it be fresh fried fish with coconut rice from the Caribe? The Bandeja Paisa from Antioquia? Ajiaco soup from Bogota, sweet Choclo Arepas or Aborrajado from the Cauca region. Will it cover all the fruits and juices that you can find in Colombia? My last burning question was, which of the many types of tamales will be chosen?

Street food in Colombia in La Perseverancia Market

For the second time, the Plaza de Mercado La Perseverancia is nominated as “Restaurant with the best Colombian cuisine”. This market is known because there, in one place, is the gastronomic representation of the entire country. Popular with locals, this market has become more popular with tourists as a one-stop shop for Colombian cuisine.

If you are lucky enough to nab one of the 53 tables in this smallish mercado, you will be in for a special culinary experience. Colombia has an incredible biodiversity which creates meals from cool mountainous regions to hot tropical forest, plentiful ocean seafood to river fish. The options are always seasoned with aromatic and fresh herbs.

My cousins and I walked in late into the lunch-hour rush and managed to nab a seat right away. Like any good food vendor, we are quickly approached by different servers with menus from different stalls.

“Gracias pero voy a mirar para ver qué me llama la atención.” (a good phrase to know in any shopping situation). “Thanks but I am going to look around to see what catches my eye”. Often one savours with the eyes, are enticed by smell and ultimately seduces by the palate. There is no exception in Plaza de Mercado La Perseverancia the choice is vast and intoxicating. To think this is street food in Colombia in one market

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Insider Tip: Have a bowl of ajiaco (traditional 3-potato soup from Bogota) from Tolú. She was awarded the best Ajiaco in the city and Dona Luz Dary is featured in the Netflix special.

I walk around and peruse menus, eye-ball sample plates and glance into the glass display case, looking for the perfect combination. I also take a good look at what people are eating and went so far as to ask what one particular dish was and what stall he got it at. I settled on a fish fry from Esquina de Mary.

Dona Mary is famous for her coconut fish soup, rompe colchon (mattress breaker), but alas by the time we got there it was sold out. She clains that the soup will give you lots of energy… enough to break your mattress… I’ll leave it there for you to interpret ;).

I opted for the Sierra Frita from the Pacific region. It is better known to us as mackerel. It was served with sweet coconut rice, a side salad and pataconas (savoury plantain chips). It also comes with a limeade drink and all for $20,000 COP or $7.36 CDN/5.50 USD. A bargain for any North American or European tourist!

Insider Tip: Although the Netflix special talks about street food in Colombia in a market, you will find most stalls will have daily specials, either a simple one or an “almuerzo ejecutivo” which is a bit more fancy, with more food and a drink included. Always ask what they are ‘know for’ or what they specialize in as many stalls will have a variety of options. These options can be seasonal and set at the whim of the chef.

Arepas are very traditional thick corn tortillas made with both the traditional white and yellow cornmeal. They can be plain or stuffed with just about anything (chicharon, cheese, egg). They are a staple in the Colombian diet and are can be eaten at any meal.

If you are looking for a traditional arepa, head to one of the side stalls for one of Dona Berta’s arepas de queso or empanada. She’s at La Caseta del Tino. A ‘tino’ is a small black coffee with a touch of sugar. Perfect pick-me-up for a late afternoon snack.

Cositas Ricas Doña María, (Boyaca region) and Comidas Pili (Tolima region) specialize in two other Colombian staples tamales and Bandeja Paisa. A Bandeja Paisa is probably the most recognized national dish but it is in fact native to the Antioquia region where inhabitants are known as ‘paisas’. It is a dish full of shredded beef or steak, blood sausage (morcilla), rice, beans, plantains, and a fried egg. Below is a bandeja paisa that I savoured near Guatape.

A Colombian tamal is always wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. A tamal from Tolima will have corn masa, chicken, pork meat and pork rind (chicharon), and a hard boiled egg. Some will also have peas or garbanzo beans. On my next visit to Colombian my intent is to try every type of tamal from every region in Colombia!

Plaza de Mercado La Perseverancia is a gem and should not be missed if you are in Bogota. What you will find is street food in Colombia in a market. It is This market provides a large variety of food served for breakfast or lunch. It closes around 3 pm and will be very busy from noon until 1:30. Be sure and come with an empty stomach and an open mind to the delicacies available here. You will not regret it.

Insider Tip: Take a walk around the outside of the building to see the very intricate mural “Guache” created by Oscar Gonzalez. Within it you will find symbols and representations of this working-class barrio (neighbourhood). From a clay pot to make chicha (a traditional – and at times throughout history- controversial beverage). There is maize, herbs, corn that turns into flames, a local church and even a very influential political leader (Jorge Eliécer Gaitán) who was assassinated in 1948. The mosaic of the indigenous woman is an ode to all working women that keep the market (and society) going. The mural tells the story of this market as a community centre and food market since 1940.

Bonus: video tour

This is a great video of the many delicious meals that you can order in Plaza de la Perseverancia. It’s in Spanish but they have added titles with the name of the dish, the local and the price.

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