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The first time I visited Ireland was in 2018 with my eldest daughter—a competitive Irish dancer for 11 years—who joined me to discover a country familiar from books, songs, and history, yet full of mystery. We’d seen the Cliffs of Moher and been charmed by Killarney, the Beara Peninsula and Kilkea Castle, but I longed to return to the Emerald Isle and show my husband the endless shades of green. I loved Ireland from my first visit but nothing prepared us for the raw beauty of County Donegal, Ireland’s northernmost county.
County Donegal is home to the Derryveagh Mountains crowned by Mount Errigal, and its Seven Sisters range. From the golden beaches of Rossnowlagh to the sweeping shores of Marble Hill Beach, its coastline reveals breathtaking Wild Atlantic Way vistas that rival Canada’s natural wonders.
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With TBEX Donegal day trips and a four-day FAM, Paul and I uncovered this hidden gem (a phrase I usually dislike but it’s very fitting). This 5-day Donegal itinerary through County Donegal covers massively high cliffs, challenging hikes, indulgent spas, and delicious seafood at every turn. We saw so much on our Donegal road trip, but with so much more to explore, I know we will return.
We were based for three nights at the Shandon Hotel and Spa, a seaside haven with spectacular sunrise views, before heading south to The Sandhouse Hotel and Marine Therapies for two more tranquil oceanside nights before finally catching a train from Sligo to Dublin.
Day 1: Fanad Lighthouse, Horn Head & Spa Treatments
The road from Letterkenny to Fanad is made for postcards: coastal cottages, thatched pubs, and rolling pastures giving way to the open sea. By mid-morning, the white tower of Fanad Head Lighthouse appears against the brooding sea and grey clouds. We arrived in the rain, but that did not dissuade us from exploring.
Perched between Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay, the 1817 structures continues to keep sailors safe from Donegal’s unpredictable currents. Today, it invites visitors to climb the narrow, spiralling stairs to peer from the lantern room where this beacon cuts through maritime fog.
On a windy day, you can imagine the keeper’s isolation. The waves crashing against the unforgiving shoreline is both terrifying and awe-inspiring for this city-girl. After our tour, we tucked into some homemade soup and a fancy grilled cheese sandwiches at the Fanad Café before continuing on our journey.
From Fanad, it’s a 25-minute drive west to Shandon Hotel and Spa, which is more than a base, it’s a retreat from our hectic days in Letterkenny at the conference. We check into a Superior View Room (trust me, it’s worth it) and take in that endless Sheephave Bay vista.
We laced up our hiking shoes, put on a toque, and headed for Horn Head, a short drive away. Even before you step onto the trail, the panorama is sensational: cliffs tumbling into deep blue coves, seabirds overhead, and the ever-present wind roaring around your ears. We brace ourselves to take pictures without being blown over. We did not venture far, but the hike covers 3 km and would be challenging on a windy day.
By mid-afternoon we are ready for one of the main reasons we are here: the SPA. We had made reservations for treatments—I opted for the Goddess Sculpt treatment. It lived up to its name; think self-care and luxurious pampering (a massage, relaxation room, and then time in the spa).
We followed up our treatments with a bit of bubbly and alternating soaks with a eucalyptus steam bath, ice chips, dry sauna, and cold plunge… the best in a Nordica spa escapade. I cannot recommend this enough. It’s worth staying an extra day to spend some time relaxing after all the driving and touring in County Donegal.
Dinner and drinks at JonJo’s Bar make a lively finish, while Marbles Restaurant upstairs highlights Irish fine dining with Donegal local delicacies. After a full day, sleep comes easily, accompanied by the faraway sounds of the waves in the distance.
Day 2: Sunrise, Cold Plunges & Whiskey Warmth
A fellow content creator, Todd Hata, had encouraged us to catch every sunrise and sunset in our destination. Rise early to see one of the most spectacular sunrises in your life. A blood-orange sky streaming over the Atlantic, the kind of sunrise that reminds you that you’ve made the right decision to come to Ireland in the fall.
Shortly after watching this beautiful display of colour, we found ourselves on Marble Hill beach, Shandon’s cozy terry robe cinched tight, preparing for a cold-water plunge. Therapeutic while giving your body a jolt, the salt air and the shock of the water, all shared with friends, was a bucket list task crossed off.
After warming up over a hearty breakfast at the hotel, the day unfolds with a leisurely drive through Gaeltacht countryside (where Irish is the spoken language) on the way to Croithli Distillery in Crolly. What Donegal road trip would be without a whiskey tasting?
The whiskey tastes of peat, heritage, and Irish storytelling: the copper stills shine as the guide takes us through the history of the building, the origins of the stills, and the precision involved in making spirits in Ireland.
Lunch at Leo’s Tavern brings the story full circle– this is where Clannad and Enya set their first notes to music, and the walls hum with memory. Between the Guinness and the roast beef, it’s easy to imagine evenings filled with harmonies and laughter.
The afternoon brought another adventure on water– this time with Donegal Sea Adventures from Burtonport Harbour. Just west of County Donegal, the Rosses cliffs loom high, the sea is a bit rough, and the caves beckon curiosity. With a need to warm up from the chilly ride, we head back to the Shandon Hotel to change.
One recommended stop would be Arnold’s Hotel. An Original Irish Hotel, this boutique property hosted us for a warm Irish coffee and fresh oysters. This property also had delicious shortbread and jams for purchase—the perfect local gifts to bring home!
From there we headed to Braai Restaurant Creeslough, a delicious South African restaurant with a wonderful selection of grilled meats over an open fire accompanied by excellent wines. It had a very chill vibe and was about 20 minutes from the Shandon Hotel.
Day 3: Glenveagh, Lough Eske & Arrival in Donegal Town
After breakfast, leave the coastline behind and head inland through the scenic Muckish Gap towards Glenveagh National Park and Castle. Located about an hour from the hotel, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the rugged mountains and mirror-still lakes. Glenveagh spans 16,000 hectares of untouched wilderness anchored by its late-Victorian castle. The house tour adds a touch of faded glamour, while the terrace gardens and lakeside trail make for some spectacular Donegal photo stops. Expect an entrance fee of €5-15.
The history and tour of one castle can be the luxury experience of another. On our way to Donegal Town, we headed for a quick visit and Afternoon Tea at Lough Castle. This five-star property pairs lake views with tiered trays of pastries, scones, and delicate sandwiches—a fine contrast to the wild terrain we explored earlier in the day. I recommend you book ahead (€35+). I hope to return to this luxury hotel for a stay in their spacious rooms and wonderful spa.
From Lough Eske, it’s a leisurely 20-minute drive to Donegal Town, where we did a bit of window shopping at Magees of Donegal Weaving (for traditional tweed and quality clothing) and McBrew for coffee. We had dinner at the Olde Castle Seafood Bar. It was busy for dinner, but we did manage to find a table.
Our room for the night was at the Sandhouse Hotel and Marine Therapies in Rossnowlagh between Donegal Town and Ballyshannon. The best part about this Original Irish Hotel is the location. The Atlantic rolls in just metres from the hotel as it sits perched overlooking the Blue Flag beach. I wrote a full hotel review of the Sandhouse Hotel on Hotel-Scoop.com.
Day 4: Slieve League
After breakfast (which is included in the room rate), we set out for Slieve League (Sliabh Liag) cliffs about an hour from the hotel. Rising 600 metres, these sea cliffs are three times taller than the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare but attract a fraction of the crowds.
From the carpark at Bunglass Point take the shuttle to the start of the ascending path if conditions allow. It is often windy at the top, so plan for layers and bring a picnic lunch or have tea and scones at the visitor’s centre.
Return to Rossnowlaghh by mid-afternoon for a well earned session at the Sandhouse Hotel’s marine spa. Seaweed therapies are a signature here. Enjoy good book and a cocktail on the terrace overlooking the Atlantic.
In the evening, dine at the Glasshouse Restuarant, where the menue leans into local seafood (scallops, hake or whatever the Killybegs fleet landed that day).
Day 5: Rossnowlagh to Sligo – Coastal Finale
We began our day with a slow walk along Rossnowlagh Beach, a sweeping Blue Flag beach (meeting international environmental standards). There was plenty of seaweed and a surfing group lesson. This beach is expansive and very popular during the summer months.
From the hotel, we drove to Ballyshannon, one of Ireland’s oldest towns. We made a short stop at the Rory Gallagher statue, the pride of the Irish music scene. In the late spring there is a four-day Rory Gallagher Music Festival honouring this rock legend.
We proceeded south towards Bundoran to the Tullan Strand for a walk along the Wild Atlantic Way. If you know anything about Ireland, it’s that lore is the driver of most stories. We stopped to see the Fairy Bridge and Wishing Chair—two local landmarks. It was a quick Instagram moment to capture Donegal’s folklore charm—and to make a few wishes, of course.
It is these stunning views that make visiting County Donegal a must-see on your bucket list. In 2024, the natural beauty of this place is why it was named number four as one of the best regions to visit by Lonely Planet.
As we began to wind down our 5-day Donegal road trip, our itinerary brought us to the Gleniff Horseshoe, about 20 minutes from the Tullan Strand. This dramatic glacial valley is surrounded by steep green walls and waterfalls that seem to appear out of the mist—honestly, it is that magical! From there, we took the scenic Benbulbin Drive so we could see the majestic Dartry Mountains. Benbulbin (Binn Ghulbain in Irish) is a steep-sided, tabletop mountain formed during the last ice age. It is massive and juts out into the stormy skies over this northern county.
It is the last memorable vista on our epic Donegal road trip as we make our way to our next adventures in Northern Ireland, UK with Rabbies. We say our goodbyes to County Sligo and County Donegal as we catch our train to Dublin. We will be back!
Disclosure: My husband and I were guests of the of the Shandon Hotel and Spa and the Sandhouse Hotel and Marine Therapies with the assistance of Go Visit Donegal as part of a TBEX FAM tour and private tour of County Donegal. I cannot thank them enough for their generosity.
This 5-Day Road Trip Itineray combined many of the pre-and post-tours to create a more cohesive guide to the region. All opinions are my own.
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Loved the pix, especially the coastal shots. Would love to spend a couple of nights at the Sandhouse Hotel!
Honestly, the star of the show was the beach. It went on for miles and the seaweed was amazing!
That beach is spectacular. To see those people taking surf lessons in September seemed courageous to me. If you go get a room with an ocean view.
Loved the photos and bookmarking this for when I manage to visit!
Thank you. You can’t take a bad picture in Donegal, it’s that beautiful!
I’m hoping to visit Ireland for the first time in May. Like your first visit, it will be to the Cliffs of Moher direction. I think I will l go back with my husband and follow this itinerary to County Donegal.
Not that I don’t appreciate the Cliffs of Mohar but Slieve League is so very impressive. Wherever you go, you will love Ireland!
This looks like a great Ireland itinerary! I still need to get there.
One day. It definitely needs to be on your radar. Nothing like Ireland.
I loved visiting Donegal but missed several things you have highlighted here. Bookmarking this for the next time I return!
I loved it so much, I’m hoping to return this fall. Crossing fingers that I can return.
Looks absolutely beautiful and these descriptions and photos make me want to visit as soon as I can!!